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If you desire to do the job right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and actually see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
It is 2 separate jobs. You get to deal with powder fouling. Second, you need to remove copper fouling. Only then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning products out there. Here is a list of what I utilize. J Dewey nylon-coated cleansing rods. They come in.
Eliminate the brush, hose it down once again, and put it aside to dry. Rub out the cleaning rod with a paper towel. Take your patch rod, and put 3 solvent restore the bore. The last one must come out nearly white. When it does, follow with a dry patch.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and lumps and streaks, it's back to the J-B.
If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent restore the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, however if it has green or blue discolorations, back to the J-B.
Now, some basic notes. Some barrels copper-foul much worse than others. As a rule, the more you invest in a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. However every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do burglary procedures work? I doubt it. I have actually had one or two cases where a barrel all of a sudden began to group as I reached the end of the process, however I have actually had even more burglaries that made no difference at all.
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They work, sometimes, but if you forget and leave the stuff in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but good, and since I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I hesitate to take the opportunity. Also, they're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go simple on the Break-Free.
Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend upon their guns going bang. They desire them immaculate. And spotless is a great way to go.
The steps to properly clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field removing or complete disassembly. We'll cover standard field removing in this article. Due to the range of rifles, complete disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this short article. This is the most important action in the entire cleansing process.
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Using a cleansing tool, such as a utility brush or cleaning up swabs, and eliminate any loose particles that may be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber. Heavy fouling can be gotten rid of with a light application of cleaner and permitting it to sit for a couple of minutes prior to brushing.
One typical myth is that more is much better when it concerns lubrication of your firearm. You wish to properly lubricate where needed, but excessive can result in excessive residues, which can cause malfunctions and dealing with issues (slippery). Oiling cloths are an excellent tool due to the fact that they help manage the quantity of oil/lubrication being used in any given location of your gun.
The procedure is basic. Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Keep in mind, keep your barrel clamped or pointed down to prevent any solvent collecting near the actionsee Step 1.) Permit it to sit, and keep in mind that getting rid of copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Costs Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.
What you do not desire is to let any ammonia solvent dry out therein. So when you're pleased that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of spots that have been damp with a regular cleansing solvent. Run 3 or four dry spots down the bore to remove any staying solvent.